| |
Istria is the gastronomical heart of Croatia,
with its crumbling stone villages and sparkling rivers, all
surrounded by the glistening blue Adriatic. The
region has a mixed and fascinating history (conquered by the
Romans, the Goths, the Croats, the Franks, then annexed by the
Republic of Venice in 1267 and later given to the Hapsburgs by
Napoleon...) but the predominant influence remains Italian. The
Istrians describe themselves as "più Italiani degli
Italiani." More Italian than the Italians! Almost
everything from the picturesque hillside villages to Istrian
dishes has two names: the town of Abbzia in Italian is also
known as Opatija in
Croatian. Italian fusilli
are also Croatian fusi.
Istria’s
charming coast, reminiscent of the Greek isles, and its rugged
inland Alpine beauty began to exert its charms on tourists after
the fall of Tito and Croatian independence. The reputation of Istria’s unique cuisine also began to
grow because of the emphasis on fresh, locally-grown organic
produce including delicacies such as Istrian truffles, hams and
olive oil and it has in recent years become a mecca for culinary
tourists. In New
York, Istrian-born chef Lidia Bastianich has long been a particularly
effective evangelist from her East-Side Felidia
where she combines Istrian with other Italian dishes. Try the renowned
krafi or ravioli filled
with cheese, raisins, rum and grated lemon rind - also known
poetically as wedding pillows. While
Istrian food is really a variation on an Italian theme, Balkan and Germanic influences
lend it a distinct flavor. Where
else would one find something so refreshingly distinct and pungent
as polenta squid soup? Mussels,
clams and swordfish
abound, often simply grilled with olive oil or lightly breaded.
A hearty vegetable stew with sauerkraut and bacon known as jote or vegetable
gnocchi are
perfect for chilly autumn or winter nights. Fusi
al tartufo are delicate cylindrical pasta served with olive
oil and topped with grated white truffles. And
then there are
the Istrian wines: the fruity white Malvasia (or Malvazija) or
perhaps the lovely
deep red known as Terran. Or there is Kruskovac, a local pear liqueur that is sure to transport you to
sublime levels of post-prandial contentment. Perhaps
the food is why the Romans called Istria terra magica...
Eat:
Felidia,
New York
Eat:
Rudar
Club, Astoria
Permalink
Save
to del.icio.us
Digg
This!
Become
a Fan
on Facebook!
|
|
|
